RELFECTIONS, B.C.V.C.B III

     We entered from the south: Ho Chi Minh City (the former Saigon). Mosquitoes cease to be an issue, but the heat persists. Motor scooter prevails as the primary mode of commuting. Swarms of motorists consume the roads, vastly outnumbering the less agile automobiles, and concede little right of way. Commuting by scooter one is subject foremost to the ebbs and flows of the swarm; one cannot move in a determinist fashion from point A to point B. This makes scootering in HCMC grueling, even masochistic, until late evening when night markets have closed. During the day, pedestrian circulation is an afterthought. Even modest streets are teeming with scooters congesting the roads, and vendors displacing pedestrians on sidewalks.

     Informal home-made/self-organized eateries predominate; typically several pots of food and array of Playskool chairs on the sidewalk and no storefront. Pho and spring rolls are available without fail. The pho suffers from weak aromatics. The heat and congestion of the city thwarts access/distribution of perishable herbs and produce; basil and cilantro whither from heat and condiments attract insects.

     We encountered an exceptional spread of stews at one stand. Flavors ranged from spicy to murky to fishy to vibrant. She cooked her rice short of becoming mushy, and blanched her vegetables to a crisp green, demonstrating her command of the kitchen.

      Iced coffee, available throughout any block, helps to cool off and sustain in the heat. Vietnam cultivates robusto beans; of lesser quality than aribica beans. The Vietnamese coffee industry is young, relative to that of Indonesia, Latin America, and Sub-Saharan Africa, but it has had a detrimental effect on the industry since the 1980s when Vietnam flooded the global market with its cheap, poor-quality, robusto stock. Undiversified Latin American economies were hit hardest, namely Brazil. Quality of coffee beans in the global market declined for years following, in attempts to compete with cheap Vietnamese exports. Demand for higher-quality aribica would later resurge due to the success and spread of the Starbucks Corporation and the consumption of euro-styled coffee drinks were integrated into the daily routine of American bourgeoisie.

     The tiny robusta bean makes a potent, almost harsh, brew of coffee. But this concentrated brew is the ideal when poured over ice and fortified with sweetened condensed milk; robust and delicious.

RELFECTIONS, B.C.V.C.B II

     

     The flat terrain of Siem Reap is easily negotiated on bicycle (available at nearest gas station or hotel, 1 USD per day. Single speed steel cruisers with baskets and rear mounts are standard issue. The cyclist sits upright, poised for receiving the landscape and the breeze. The cruisers’ heavy-gauge steel frames make for a supple and forgiving ride.

     

     Ciggerette/water/beer kiosks appear regularly on any trail, but watch closely for a barbeque chicken stand; don’t pass this one.

     

     Likely marinated in a blend of vinegar, cane juice, chili, lime, and tamarind. The sugar and vinegar effectively brine the poultry, optimizing its chemistry for succulence. And tamarind has never done anyone no wrong… at once fruity, but savoury. Zesty, yet lingering and complex.

A whole chicken is served freshly seared and cut into quarters, trimmed of any feet, and a chili-lime vinaigrette on the side. 5 USD. Among the best meals on our expedition. Seek out the aroma of tamarind and a charcoal fire anywhere you are and you wont be betrayed.

There were also crickets; didn’t interest me.

REFLECTIONS, B.C.V.C.B I

Swine flu was all the rage that summer. Regardless of scale, Hong Kong International to Siem Reap, each airport/national-threshold required thermal scanning for admission. Climate: French Colonial… humid, lush, streets filled with scooter driven carriages, aromas of crusty baguettes, gingery broths and jasmine rice. Men wear officious shirts with epaulets on their shoulders, and women apply whitening creams on their faces.

  A consumable-fruits vendor expertly skins petite pineapples with his paring knife. The milling may appear ornamental, but the spiral course is a function of efficient stud removal along the pineapples surface. Finally the pineapple is sliced into 6 longitudinal sections, each speared with a robust skewer; a veritable fruit kebab.

  He also offers fists of stubby banana. The skin is naturally peppered, these are not blemishes. Stubby banana was traditionally reserved for “nobility” I am told… likewise French colonialists and western tourists. The taste is sweet and mellow, and there is a satisfying spring to its bight, like bread made with proper, high-gluten flour. Both are sold for 1 USD. Payment by € or GBP is not recommended in Cambodia and Cambodian tender is generally issued only as change, not for payment.

  Should you purchase a fist of stubby banana, the vendor will tie a loop of twine around the stems so the bananas may hang from your wrist.