The flat terrain of Siem Reap is easily negotiated on bicycle (available at nearest gas station or hotel, 1 USD per day. Single speed steel cruisers with baskets and rear mounts are standard issue. The cyclist sits upright, poised for receiving the landscape and the breeze. The cruisers’ heavy-gauge steel frames make for a supple and forgiving ride.
Ciggerette/water/beer kiosks appear regularly on any trail, but watch closely for a barbeque chicken stand; don’t pass this one.


Likely marinated in a blend of vinegar, cane juice, chili, lime, and tamarind. The sugar and vinegar effectively brine the poultry, optimizing its chemistry for succulence. And tamarind has never done anyone no wrong… at once fruity, but savoury. Zesty, yet lingering and complex.
A whole chicken is served freshly seared and cut into quarters, trimmed of any feet, and a chili-lime vinaigrette on the side. 5 USD. Among the best meals on our expedition. Seek out the aroma of tamarind and a charcoal fire anywhere you are and you wont be betrayed.
There were also crickets; didn’t interest me.
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